Maintenance of St. Augustine Grass Lawns
L. B. McCarty and John L. Cisar
Establishment
St Augustine
grass is established by vegetative propagation because its seeds have poor germination and do not remain true to type. St. Augustine grass
is a stoloniferous grass (with above ground stems) and can be planted by sod, sprigs, or plugs (Table 1). Each of these methods can be equally successful if the site is properly prepared and maintained before
and after planting.
New home or building sites
should be rough graded. Rocks, roots, and other debris need to be removed. On existing sites, unwanted vegetation should be removed by a nonselective herbicide
such as glyphosate (Roundup). A soil test should be taken in the area to determine
the pH and the need for plant nutrients. These nutrients need to be applied before
planting, and tilled in if the soil is bare. The next step is the installation
of a new irrigation system, or repairs to an existing system. Before any grass
is planted, the area should be final graded and thoroughly moistened to help the establishment process.
The best time to plant St. Augustine is during active growth, normally April through July. Other times may be suitable, with sufficient care to prevent desiccation and cold
damage. The chapters entitled “Preparing To Plant A Florida
Lawn” and “Establishing Your Florida Lawn”
in this publication give additional details on turf establishment.
Sodding
Establishment of St. Augustine grass by sodding produces an instant lawn. Sod should only be laid over bare, moist soil, with pieces laid in a staggered brick-like pattern and the
edges fitted tightly together to avoid cracks. Fill any cracks between strips
with soil to avoid open spaces for weed encroachment. Rolling and thorough watering
will ensure good contact with the soil for fast rooting. Sodded areas should
be watered at least every other day with ½ inch of water until the sod is held fast to the soil by roots, then watering (3/4
inch) should be reduced to an as-needed basis.
Sprigging
Planting St. Augustine grass by sprigging is an effective way to patch small areas unless it is performed
mechanically. Fresh springs are stolons (runners) that have at least two nodes
or joints. These are planted end to end in rows 6 – 12 inches apart. The runner should be covered with soil, leaving the leaves exposed. Tamping the soil and a thorough watering help establish the plants.
The soil should be kept moist until new stolons are produces.
Plugging
A number of the new varieties
of St. Augustine grasses are available commercially as plugs. Sod also can be made into plugs by cutting it into small squares. Spacing of plugs varies from 6- 12 inches. The closer spacing
provides full coverage in 3 – 6 months and farther spacing covers in 6 – 12 months. Plugs are placed in holes of the same size or in open furrows and tamped into place. A thorough watering completes the installation. The turf should
then be cared for like a sprigged lawn.
Mowing
Proper mowing practices are important in maintaining an attractive
lawn. Both height and frequency of cut need to be adjusted for the level of turf
management (Table 1). Under high levels of management, St. Augustine grass can be maintained at 2 inches, if the lawn is mowed at least weekly during
the growing season. Mowing at this height and frequency requires more fertilizer
and water to maintain an attractive lawn. Also, low cutting heights and high
maintenance levels can predispose the turf to many pest problems. Under moderate
or low levels of management, St. Augustine grass should be
cut at a height of 3 – 4 inches. To obtain this height with most home rotary
lawn mowers, the highest wheel height setting should be used. This height will
help the grass develop a deep root system and give a better appearance to the turf.
Mowing frequency under moderate or low management should be adjusted to the amount of growth. No more than one-third the height of the leaf blades should be removed with any mowing. During periods of moisture stress, or if the grass is growing in shade, increase the mowing height to 4
inches. Newer semi-dwarf varieties have a lower growth habit, and should
be mowed at 1-1/2 – 2 inches for optimum quality.
Mowing too infrequently can
cause a thatch buildup. The secret to mowing St.
Augustine grass at 3 inches is to water the lawn only when there are signs of moisture stress. This will keep growth to a minimum and reduce the rate of thatch accumulation. The chapter entitled “Thatch and its Control in Florida Lawn” in this publication has more information on thatch.
Mowing too low can also cause
problems in turf quality. Constant low mowing reduces the density and vigor of
St. Augustine grass.
Weed problems in St. Augustine grass lawns can usually
be attributed to a low height of cut and improper watering.
Either a rotary or reel mower
can be used on St. Augustine grass. It is important to keep the blades sharp and well-adjusted to get a clean cut. Dull blades will give the lawn a brownish cast, because a
ragged cut shreds the leaf blades rather than cutting them. During the growing
season blades should be sharpened on a monthly basis.
Grass clippings can be left
on a lawn that is mowed at the proper height and frequency. Under these conditions,
clippings do not contribute to the thatch layer. Clippings should be left on
lawns maintained with low to moderate fertility levels to help recycle nutrients. Remove
clippings if the amount is excessive (e.g., clumping occurs).
Watering
The best way to irrigate an established lawn is on an as-needed
basis. Grass blades will begin to wilt (e.g., fold, turn bluish-green in color
and not recover from traffic or foot printing) as the moisture begins to be depleted in the soil. If 30% - 50% of the lawn shows signs of slight wilting, it is time to irrigate with ¾ inch of water. The turf will fully recover within 24 hours.
The turf should not be watered again until it shows signs of wilting. This
irrigation schedule works for any soil type and environmental condition. For
further information on recommended watering practices see the chapter in this publication entitled “Watering Your Florida Lawn.” Proper watering practices will help
maintain a lawn that requires less mowing and has little thatch buildup. Proper
watering will also help develop a deep root system and encourage plants which are less susceptible to damage by pest and environmental
stress. If the diseased brown patch or gray leaf spot are a continuous problem,
over watering and excessive nitrogen fertilization may be responsible. Certain
weeds (like pennywort and nutsedge) also thrive in soils which are continuously wet.
Regulate these management practices closely to reduce disease and weed severity.
Fertilizing
Maintaining a good quality
lawn requires a properly planned fertility program. An acceptable quality St. Augustine grass lawn can be grown with a low to a high level of
fertility, depending on what the homeowner wants (Plate 29). First, decide how
much time and effort can be spent on lawn maintenance. A low fertility lawn is
best for those with little time to spend on lawn care. A high fertility lawn
may be better suited to those who find a low fertility St. Augustine
grass lawn unattractive, and have more time for lawn care.
A low maintenance St. Augustine lawn should be fertilized twice a year, once in the spring
and again in the late summer while the grass is actively growing (Table 2). Apply
a complete fertilizer such as 16-4-8, 10-10-10, or 6-6-6 with micronutrients at the rate of a 1 pound of actual nitrogen per
1000 square feet per application. It is best to leave the clippings on these
lawns to recycle nutrients.
At the optimum maintenance
level, a St. Augustine grass lawn should receive 4 pounds
of nitrogen per 1000 square feet per year. Apply fertilizer four times per year,
In March, May July, and September, at the rate of 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet. Never apply more than 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet at any one time. A complete fertilizer can be used at every fertilization, although two applications per year is sufficient. A slow-release, nitrogen only fertilizer may be applied in between complete fertilizer
applications. This fertility level, combined with the proper watering practices,
will result in a good quality lawn with minimal thatch buildup.
Heavy fertilization rates will produce a faster buildup of thatch
than lower rates. High rates of fertilizing can also encourage insect damage
to the turf. Additionally, the necessary amount of mowing and watering increases
with the amount of fertilizer. Careful planning is necessary to grow the desired
type of lawn. The chapter entitled “Understanding Soil Analysis and Fertilization”
provides details on fertilizing turf grasses in north and south Florida.
Pest
Problems
Several pest problems can
affect St. Augustine grass.
Diagnosis and recommendations for treatment of pest problems are available from your county Cooperative Extension Service.
Insect
The major pest of St. Augustine grass is chinch bugs.
Large populations of this insect have become resistance to organophosphate insecticides. Alternative chemicals are available, but the best solution is to plant Floratam or Floralawn, since these
cultivars are resistant to chinch bugs. Other insect pests, including webworms,
armyworms, grass loopers, and mole crickets, can cause damage on St. Augustine
grass. High levels of nitrogen fertilizer encourage insect problems. Refer to the chapters on specific insect pests for description and
information about their control.
Diseases
Brown patch and gray leaf
spot are the two major disease problems of St. Augustine grass. Brown patch occurs in warm, humid weather and is encouraged by excessive nitrogen. Brown patch is generally most noticeable during spring and fall months. Gray leaf spot occurs during the summer rainy season and is primarily a problem on new grown. Both diseases can be control with fungicides. Refer to the
section on disease problems for additional information.
Nematodes
Several types of nematodes
infest St. Augustine grass lawns. Nematodes cause yellowing and general thinning of older lawns. Refer
to the section on nematodes or contract your county Cooperative Extension Service for Additional information.
Weeds
Weed problems in a lawn indicate that the turf has been weakened by improper management practices or damage from pests. Proper management practices can eliminate most weed problems. If weeds are a persistent problem, herbicides labeled specifically for St.
Augustine grass should be used. Many commercial weed and
feed formulations will provide control, but they should not be used every time the lawn is fertilized. Read and follow any pesticide label before use. The chapter
entitled “Weed Control Guide for Florida Lawns”
gives specific weed control recommendations.
Other Problems
Many other factors can decrease
the quality of a lawn. To insure a good St.
Augustine grass lawn, refer to other sections of this publication for recommended management practices,
and follow label directions when applying fertilizers and pesticides.
Having problems with your lawn...brown
patches...bare spots?
Chinch Bugs, Their Damage and Elimination
Chinch bugs are most damaging to St. Augustine grass. You may see them on grasses such as zoysia, Bermuda, and centipede,
but infestations usually occur where high populations have built up on St. Augustine
grass. Adult chinch bugs are about one-fifth of an inch long and black with white wings
folded over their backs. The insect mates early in the season when the temperature reaches 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
The female lays eggs on roots, stems, leaves, leaf sheaths or crevices in nodes and other protected places. Eggs are
laid over a 2 to 3 week period, with one female laying as many as 500 eggs.
The young chinch bugs ( called nymphs) develop
into adults in four to six weeks. Nymphs are yellow upon hatching but soon turn red and have a light colored band across
their abdomens. With each molt, nymphs more closely resemble the adults. There are 2 to 4 generations per year.
The chinch bugs insert their slender beak
into the grass and suck the plant juices. As the chinch bug sucks the plant juices, it releases a toxin that causes
yellowish to brownish patches in turf. Typical injury appears as spreading patches of brown, dead grass. This
pest is a sunshine-loving insect and seldom attacks grass in a dense shady area. Discolored areas caused by chinch bug
feeding that are in open sunlight several hours daily may be "hot spots" for chinch bug damage. Most homeowners will
first notice dead patches of grass along a driveway, curb, sidewalk or foundation of the home, due to the heat emitted from
such objects.
Because they can fly, it is difficult to keep an area
free of chinch bugs if they are emerging from neighboring lawns, golf courses or nearby croplands.
Scout turf on sunny days by
slowly sliding your foot through the sod and watching for the bugs to crawl across your shoe. You can also determine infestations
by using a large coffee can or gallon can with both ends removed. Press one end of the can about 2 or 3 inches into the soil,
fill with soapy water, and watch for about 5 minutes. If chinch bugs are present, they will float to the surface. (This test
will also bring molecrickets to the surface) It is very important to check areas where the yellowish spots and the green grass
meet in several different locations.